Beauty writer Danielle Cohen dives deep into the world of kohl eyeliner, offering expert insights and tips from industry professionals.
With a history steeped in culture, kohl eyeliner has been a cosmetic mainstay for decades (millennia even). And though today's kohl eyeliner is vastly different from that of ancient society, the outcome—that sultry, smoky, deeply pigmented line—is still spot-on.
But to fully understand the iconic product, we need to look back at its origins, safety regulations, and modern-day translation. After all, kohl liner is so much more than just an eyeliner. Read on for absolutely everything you need to know about kohl liner.
Meet the Expert
- Noreen Galaria, MD FAAD, is a board-certified dermatologist as well as the CEO and founder of Inner Glow Vitamins.
- Charlie Riddle is a celebrity makeup artist and Global Head of Artistry for Stila Cosmetics.
- Tobi Henney is a celebrity makeup artist.
The History of Kohl Liner
"Kohl" is an Arabic term for the mineral originally used to create the cosmetic. According to the U.S. Food and Drug Administration, it's also known as kajal, al-Kahal, surma, tiro, tozali, and kwalli. And, much like the product itself, the history of kohl eyeliner is deeply rich.
Kohl eyeliner dates back to roughly 3000 BC, and its application purposes went far beyond beautifying. According to Riddle, kohl eyeliner was used in Egypt and the Middle East to ward off the evil eye, protect against eye ailments, and shield the harsh rays of the sun. In traditional South Asian households, newborns' eyes were even dabbed with kohl, as it was thought to cleanse and rejuvenate the eyes in Ayurvedic medicine.
The importance and popularity of kohl eyeliner in these cultures cannot be overstated. It permeated all of society—social standing, political affiliations, and age aside. Dr. Galaria points to the many papers written by Muslim scholars of the time on correct formulation and application, signifying its permeance in mainstream culture and societal impact.
Is Kohl Eyeliner Safe?
Despite its cultural importance, claims of ophthalmological benefits, and continued role as a cosmetic staple in South Asian and Middle Eastern countries, kohl eyeliner is not without its risks. And decades of research and scientific literature back up those safety concerns.
According to Dr. Galaria, traditional kohl eyeliner formulations often contained lead, often in the form of lead sulfide. The substance can build up in the body, ultimately leading to lead poisoning and issues like anemia, neurological damage, and kidney problems.
Public health studies have overwhelmingly supported this hypothesis. A 2004 study of 107 kohl samples in Saudi Arabia found lead levels of up to 53% in some preparations, prompting its authors to suggest an official public awareness campaign encouraging the use of lead-free kohl.1 Meanwhile, a 2013 study published in the Indian Journal of Clinical Biochemistry found that out of 34 surma (another word for kohl) samples (in shades of black, brown, orange, grey, and white eyeliner), all except the white color contained dangerously high levels of lead.2For this reason, the FDA bans kohl, kajal, surma, and similar materials from being used as color additives in cosmetics and other FDA-regulated products.3
Nutrition C for FS and A. Kohl, kajal, al-kahal, surma, tiro, tozali, or kwalli: by any name, beware of lead poisoning. FDA. Published online February 28, 2022.
But that doesn't mean kohl and kajal have left common cosmetic vernacular, particularly when it comes to eyeliner. In America, kohl and kajal tend to be used as marketing terms, describing intense black pigment and rich, creamy textures that give the same effect as traditional kohl. This means your favorite kohl liners are likely not actual kohl at all—which can be confusing.
With this in mind, any mentions or recommendations of kohl eyeliner from here on out (unless specifically deemed traditional kohl eyeliner) refer to FDA-approved products that are not made from kohl.
Benefits and Features of Kohl Eyeliner
Kohl eyeliner is defined by its dramatic color payoff and silky, smudgeable formula. But there's a particular set of standards inherent in any eyeliner described as "kohl." These include:
- Intense pigmentation
- Soft, creamy texture
- Long-wearing formula
- Blendability and versatility
- Non-flaking formula
Thanks to its softer composition and creamy feel, kohl eyeliner is easier to manipulate and spread than other eyeliner formulations, like regular pencil and gel liners. That formulation makes kohl liner particularly great for smoked-out, diffused liner looks. On the flip side, Henney says it's not necessarily the best option for more precise, defined lines. Riddle says that most kohl liners also feature waterproof, quick-drying formulas that make them waterline-friendly.
How to Choose the Right Kohl Eyeliner
While it's relatively obvious, we do not recommend using traditional kohl eyeliner by any means. And virtually any expert you ask will agree. "As a physician, my concern for preparations containing lead is high," Dr. Galaria says. "I'd rather people buy eyeliner that has been scientifically formulated than risk using a product that may have heavy metals and many allergens that you will be putting in your eye."
In terms of modern-day (not-actual-kohl) kohl eyeliners, there are a few considerations to remember. The first factor to think about is packaging. While most kohl eyeliners you'll find today are in pencil form, several are offered in a pot. While the pencil packaging is undoubtedly easier to apply and more accessible (given that pots necessitate a brush), pot eyeliners offer customizable application—whether that be carving out a super-precise line or using an angled liner brush to stamp the pigment on.
Regarding finishes, kohl liners generally come in matte, shimmer, and metallic finishes. While matte finishes are certainly the most universal, shimmer and metallic liners can add a subtle pop and sparkle to the eye.
Kohl liners are available in various colors, from white to black to pink. While black is a classic choice for all skin tones, those with pale complexions may want to opt for something slightly less intense, like a gray or brown hue. Meanwhile, white and nude shades look great in the waterline and help make eyes look more awake. Riddle recommends opting for beautiful, rich jewel tones for those open to experimenting, as they are pretty universal.
How to Apply Kohl Eyeliner
Depending on the intended effect, you'll want to apply kohl liner differently. While the liner is best suited for softer, smudgy looks, the right tools and prep can help achieve any liner style. Regardless, Henney suggests first cleansing your eye area with micellar water to create a clean base. Then, apply cream and powder shadows as you please before using your liner. If you forego eyeshadow and have, particularly oily lids, Riddle suggests sweeping a setting powder over your lids to reduce oil production and create a smooth base.
As far as application goes, Riddle prefers going straight in with the pencil. He usually starts in the waterline before applying directly to the lash line. Then, he'll use a small, dense brush to smudge it out. Henney follows a similar method and says she likes to use the Trademark Beauty Pencil Makeup Brush #3 to smudge and smoke out the eyeliner.
For more precise application, opt for a traditional angled liner brush (we rounded up our favorite eyeshadow brushes here), like the Sephora Collection Pro Eye Liner Brush #22, and stamp on the liner. For microfine detailing and pot packaging, we love using an even-thinner fine brush, like the MyKitCo 1.11 Pro My Tiny Liner Brush and the Bobbi Brown Ultra Fine Eye Liner Brush. If you're not as worried about precision and want a super smudgy, smokey eye, opt for a tiny smudge brush that can be used to buff the liner on, like the MyKitCo 1.24 Pro My Mini Smudge Brush.
When you're ready to remove your kohl eyeliner, Dr. Galaria suggests using micellar water or an oil-based cleanser. While removing eye makeup, Riddle says it's important to be gentle to avoid irritating the area.
How Long Does Kohl Eyeliner Last?
While you should refer to the individual product's expiration date, all three experts agree kohl liners have a shelf life of around 12 to 24 months. If you use them past this point, the product can become less effective, and you risk bacterial contamination or eye irritation.
The Final Takeaway
Kohl eyeliner is a cosmetic product with a dynamic cultural history. While it was initially created using its namesake mineral, today's kohl-inspired eyeliners don't contain the ingredient, as kohl contains high lead levels. Instead, modern kohl eyeliners like those from Kulfi Beauty, Huda Beauty, and Victoria Beckham Beauty are made with safe ingredients meant to be used around the eye area. If you're looking for a creamy, long-wearing eyeliner that delivers intense pigmentation, we encourage you to give kohl eyeliner a try.
